Stockholm Fashion Week A/W 11

February 20, 2011

It happens, ever so often, that the shape of fashion changes. If Balenciaga and Balmain defined the 00’s with their sharp and scultural design – culminating with pop wonder Lady Gaga’s signature style – the last season’s clean, minimalist silhoutte can be named ”The Céline Effect”. For Swedish designers, this wearable look is a perfect fit, but during the three intense days of Stockholm Fashion Week f/w 2011 there was something even more remarkable happening on the catwalk: The black–gray palette of Swedish fashion was shifting (and it’s not only to different shades of beige). The Swede Beat takes a closer look at some of the most protruding collections.

The New Color
Carin Rodebjer won her third Elle Fashion Award earlier this year, and her fall collection proves, again, that it was well deserved. The wearable design felt fresh, yet mature. Her elegant, amazon women strode down the catwalk in different shades of red – from metallic pink to soft burgundy – a palette you can be sure to see more of. For different shades of pink–red, check out Whyred, Minimarket, Stylein, Busnel and Filippa K.

The Darkness
Although not shying away from color, Cheap Monday – designed by Ann-Sofie Back and Örjan Andersson – showed a dark collection inspired by the apocalypse at the new Stockholm Waterfront Congress Centre. Luckily, the clothes and styling held a touch of youthful playfulness, almost exclaiming: there is hope for the future! If you have a thing for the dark side, also check out Nakkna, The Local Firm and Odeur.

The Newcomer
You’ve already read an interview with Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome of Altewai.Saome at The Swede Beat. Their debut at Stockholm Fashion Week can’t be described as anything other than pure success. Their detailed and luxurious collection was inspired by a circuit board, which reoccurs in the beaded details. Another new face is Hernandez Cornet, who also showed an elaborate and elegant collection. With these newcomers on the scene, the future of Swedish fashion is taking a much more exclusive turn.

The Alternative Show
Acne weren’t present at all. Hope, on the other hand, teamed up with director Jörgen Ringstrand and made a movie. The film “The Cap of the North” was exhibited at Bonnier Konsthall and shows a ship on it’s way to northern Lapland, the cold brutality of the ocean corresponding with the raw feeling of the clothes. In Hope’s own words: ” A Ship in motion is surrounded by an ambiance of “The Cap of the North”. The onboard crew, representing different age and nationality, is getting dressed and preparing to move on. The Artic Ocean is steering the ship towards the land of Lapland. A calm and sensual curiosity lays with in the group, embraced by the northern light.” Minimarket also chose to present their fall collection, inspired by valkyries and Vikings, with the movie Vìkìngì. Their signature colors purple, read and crusty were adorned with prints by Martin Bergström and Klaus Haapaniemi.

HOPE: http://www.youtube.com/user/HopeStockholm

MINIMARKET: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vv62cJBM49E

The Make-Up
Ann-Sofie Back’s collection for Back was elegant and stabile, with a beautiful touch of green – named Robyn-green by the designer after a dress in the same nuance she recently made for the singer. But it was the Irving Penn inspired lips, by make-up artist Tomas Lenneryd, which stole the show. The Local Firm’s wetlook hair and raw make-up are also worth mentioning.

All photographs from the collection A/W 11 are property of Berns Salonger and copyright Kristian Löveborg. All usage reserved for editorial purposes and no commercial purposes.

By Katarina Matsson

Published by: contributor